Hey guys, If any of you have any snails you want to get rid of, I'm in desperate need. I'm getting a tank started and can't afford to buy them at B&B. I've already spent way too much money over the last two weeks. Thing is I need them fast. Got some gunk building up (Algea and whatnot)
Just to give you a little backgound, I've recently decided to start keeping Reef tanks. I have recommissioned an old freshwater tank that I wans't using (33 long).
I've got the tank cycled pretty well. Just added two damsel and a cucumber, just to get some more life happening. I've only got about 15 lb of live rock. That amount will be increasing with subsequent paychecks.
If you care to read on I'm going to give you a breakdown:
33 long
Magnum205 cannister
Emperor 280 w/wheel
Emperor 170 w/wheel
802 Powerhead
A little Protien Skimmer it's just a tube with an airstone. No powerheads.
This is week 2:
The fishes are't dead, quite lively in fact. And the cucumber seems to be doing whatever they do, with a great enthusiasm. So All's well
I did notice there some algea.... Got to keep that mess in check. I don't want them to get established before anythin else does.
So if anyone has any snails, I will come to your house. No, that's not a threat.
Also if anyone has any input about this stage of tank development. Or Any advice in general. I would be very grateful.
Need snails and advice
Moderator: snoopdog
- megelBeagle
- Amoeba
- Posts: 110
- Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2004 4:53 pm
- Location: Mobile, AL
- KrazyPlace
- Astrea snail
- Posts: 1005
- Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2003 4:25 pm
- Location: Beaumont, TX
Hey Beagle, I have a few suggestion! I hope you understand your nitrogen cycle... if not read up on it!
1. Every weekend for the next few months go to B&B and have your water tested (for free) for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Once ALL the ammonia & nitrites are gone, monitor the nitrates with great care. If they reach >15 ppm do a 20-30% water change. Do NOT buy an ammonia or nitrite test kit, you will never have either of these after the cycling is done. You will need a nitrate test kit though. IMO it is invaluable.
2. The algae is normal and it is also good for your tank at this point. Don't add anything to your tank (a few snails are OK) until you are done cycling (1-3 months).
3. When you do a water change syphon the algae out.
You have a very small system. If you add another fish while you are cycling you will in effect restart the cycling process. You need to wait for the bacteria to grow. Don't hurry it... you'll only regret it.
1. Every weekend for the next few months go to B&B and have your water tested (for free) for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Once ALL the ammonia & nitrites are gone, monitor the nitrates with great care. If they reach >15 ppm do a 20-30% water change. Do NOT buy an ammonia or nitrite test kit, you will never have either of these after the cycling is done. You will need a nitrate test kit though. IMO it is invaluable.
2. The algae is normal and it is also good for your tank at this point. Don't add anything to your tank (a few snails are OK) until you are done cycling (1-3 months).
3. When you do a water change syphon the algae out.
You have a very small system. If you add another fish while you are cycling you will in effect restart the cycling process. You need to wait for the bacteria to grow. Don't hurry it... you'll only regret it.
Wind me up!
- KrazyPlace
- Astrea snail
- Posts: 1005
- Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2003 4:25 pm
- Location: Beaumont, TX
I read an interesting article on cycling a tank. The theory was to start with sand and live rock ONLY. After the ammonia & nitrite spikes you're suppose to add snails and crabs ONLY for an extended cycle. During this period the "food" (copepods, shrimp, and plankton) from the live rock and bacteria are developed (I know it's not very exciting this way).
Next you add corals; NOT fish! Establish your reef without any predators initially. There will be enough food in the system to keep the hardy corals growing.
Finally you add the most demanding items... fish. This is done slowly, small fish first, so not to 'upset' the balance. As the nitrate 'uptake' is increased each additional fish is a smaller fraction of the total nitrate production.
I would imagine this will take longer, but I think the tank would be much more stable! I'd like to try this... if I can work out the logistics I will on my next tank.
Anyone else ever heard of this?
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/sal ... cycle.html
Next you add corals; NOT fish! Establish your reef without any predators initially. There will be enough food in the system to keep the hardy corals growing.
Finally you add the most demanding items... fish. This is done slowly, small fish first, so not to 'upset' the balance. As the nitrate 'uptake' is increased each additional fish is a smaller fraction of the total nitrate production.
I would imagine this will take longer, but I think the tank would be much more stable! I'd like to try this... if I can work out the logistics I will on my next tank.
Anyone else ever heard of this?
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/sal ... cycle.html
Wind me up!
- megelBeagle
- Amoeba
- Posts: 110
- Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2004 4:53 pm
- Location: Mobile, AL
Concerns
The thing I'm concerned about is algea that is on a majority of the floor. Is that a healthy sign?
Is it indicative of something wrong?
Should I just let it go?
Also, how long after cycling do you wait for the first water change?

i'll try to find my camera and post an image
Is it indicative of something wrong?
Should I just let it go?
Also, how long after cycling do you wait for the first water change?

i'll try to find my camera and post an image
- KrazyPlace
- Astrea snail
- Posts: 1005
- Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2003 4:25 pm
- Location: Beaumont, TX