Calling all MBRK carpenters

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Calling all MBRK carpenters

Post by snoopdog »

Has anyone had any experience with Mahogany repair ? From what I understand the problem I have is common when they make a table top from one solid sheet of hardwood. In time the wood cracks from age, normally from temp changes.

When I purchased this piece years ago it had a small crack in the back that was repaired, in the last month the crack has gotten way worse and since there was a modem on top of it I had no idea how bad it had gotten. I need to get this fixed ASAP before it gets any worse.

I am going to go our and buy some clamps today in an effort to slowly bring the break back together. My question is does wetting the wood during this process help ?? Once I have the wood back together then what ? I know that wood glue is strong as hell and have had a thought of injecting it into the crack with a syringe. If you look at the smaller side of the crack you can see how the wood is also lifted upwards some. Sorry for the mess but really did not feel like cleaning the desk first.
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"When they was no meat we ate fowl, when there was no fowl we ate crawdad. And when there was no crawdad to be found, we ate sand."--Cellmate
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Post by Redfish »

That definetly looks like a crack due to age and humidity problems. Probably around a construction joint. You can try and glue it back together, but it may not work.

Normal Elmers type wood glue (aliphatic) is not as strong as the Gorilla glue types (polyurethane) but is easier to clean up on the finished wood surface. The Gorilla glue must be tightly clamped. It must also be continually watched as it foams in order to wipe up excess to avoid staining the finish. Hide glues have been used to repair antique furniture in the past, but I am unsure of their benefit in this case. I have been seriuos about my woodwork in the last five or six years and have never used Hide glue on repairs or new work. In the past I have not been a fan of the Gorilla type glues only because they can be messy. I am getting used to working with them at this point.

The Gorilla glue also offers a benefit in your case as it does expand and will probably allow a better surface to surface coverage in the crack.

Surface wetting is used with Polyurethane glues because it causes the glue to activate quicker and bond better. It may be difficult in your case.

Make sure you can close the crack with a clamp before glueing. Also, be careful of the clamp contact points. Do not crush an edge of the table. Use some cushioning to spread the load.

Phil
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Post by snoopdog »

What would you recommend to use on the cushioning ??
"When they was no meat we ate fowl, when there was no fowl we ate crawdad. And when there was no crawdad to be found, we ate sand."--Cellmate
"You ate what?"--H.I.
"We ate sand."--Cellmate
"You ate sand?"--H.I.
"That's right."--Cellmate
Redfish
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Post by Redfish »

It looks like you could use a piece of 1X stock along the straight edge above the decorative edgeing. I would use about a ten inch piece on either side. Keep it as narrow as possible so it will be stable. You will have to play with the clamp face position on the piece to get it stable. It will help if you can support the clamp bar on top of the table to keep the weight of the clamp from making the 1x unstable. You may also need the width of the cushion piece to be outside the decorative edgeing to make it stable. If you have to use a screw type clamp and it looks like you need a lot of pressure use a longer piece.

I hope that was understandable. I think you will get it when you try it.

Phil
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Post by snoopdog »

Going to start on it Thursday or Friday. I have some thin stock, I sure hope I did not throw it out.
"When they was no meat we ate fowl, when there was no fowl we ate crawdad. And when there was no crawdad to be found, we ate sand."--Cellmate
"You ate what?"--H.I.
"We ate sand."--Cellmate
"You ate sand?"--H.I.
"That's right."--Cellmate
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