Need help ASAP
Moderator: snoopdog
Need help ASAP
I recieved this email from a fellow reef keeper, and as you can see, she is in real need of help from everyone. Any ideas?
I transferred my coral tank from a 100 gal to a 115 flat back hex. Ever since I have had nothing but trouble. I have checked PH,phosphates, nitrates, and calcium and all are at the correct levels. My main problem is I keep getting algae outbreaks which I have never had before. I had red slime which I treated as directed now I have hairy algae and looks like several different types of brown algae. I have lost several leathers and I think the mushrooms you gave me have also been overcome. I have also lost 2- torches. Today my purple tang has Iche. I have used RO water and well water neither seems to make a difference. I was wondering if you or someone in your club might have a suggestions. I don’t want to lose the whole tank but I have become very frustrated.
I have seen a diatom algae treatment on the internet and I was wondering if this might work. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I transferred my coral tank from a 100 gal to a 115 flat back hex. Ever since I have had nothing but trouble. I have checked PH,phosphates, nitrates, and calcium and all are at the correct levels. My main problem is I keep getting algae outbreaks which I have never had before. I had red slime which I treated as directed now I have hairy algae and looks like several different types of brown algae. I have lost several leathers and I think the mushrooms you gave me have also been overcome. I have also lost 2- torches. Today my purple tang has Iche. I have used RO water and well water neither seems to make a difference. I was wondering if you or someone in your club might have a suggestions. I don’t want to lose the whole tank but I have become very frustrated.
I have seen a diatom algae treatment on the internet and I was wondering if this might work. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Karen
My thought would be if she keeps using treatments to try to rectify the problems she's never going to get the system to stabilize and the more problems she will see. It's very likely if she moved her existing sand bed she has disrupted the whole bacterial population and will have to allow the tank to go thru the usual stages of maturity, and these algaes will take care of themselves in due time. Did she move everything all at once or wait until moving the livestock?
So you would both not treat it for anything, not even the ick? I would suggest cleaner shrimp personally. About the algae, do you think cutting back the photo time would help?
Last edited by Jahdiel on Sun Dec 11, 2005 8:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
Karen
At this time there is really no effective "system" treatment for Ich except copper. Copper will, of course kill the invertibrates, most corals and the tank biology to some extent. In other words, it is not an option.
I am sure the previous treatments damaged or destroyed the tank biology. Get pH steady at 8.3-8.4, alkalinity steady at around 8, temperature steady somewhere between 75-79 and let it go. Try not to overfeed the tank for a while. Let the system stabilize.
Algae is nothing more than an indication of tank cycling. It is wrong to believe you can transfer everything from one tank to another and not have a tank cycle. The sand bed and the biology is seriously disturbed.
My only suggestion would be to use a product like Seachem Stability to help with the cycle and reduce tank stress. Seachem Stress Guard might be benefial for occupant stress.
I am sure the previous treatments damaged or destroyed the tank biology. Get pH steady at 8.3-8.4, alkalinity steady at around 8, temperature steady somewhere between 75-79 and let it go. Try not to overfeed the tank for a while. Let the system stabilize.
Algae is nothing more than an indication of tank cycling. It is wrong to believe you can transfer everything from one tank to another and not have a tank cycle. The sand bed and the biology is seriously disturbed.
My only suggestion would be to use a product like Seachem Stability to help with the cycle and reduce tank stress. Seachem Stress Guard might be benefial for occupant stress.
with my limited experience with tangs the purple tang I had was fairly hardy, more so then any other tang I had. It had ich at one point and pulled through with just feeding it a mix of food and keeping up with water changes. It took a while but with creating as little stress as possible and getting it good food, and a variety it cleared up. Now the other tangs that I've owned that got it, yellow, blue eye, kole, and powder blue, none of them pulled through when they got ich. Plus those purples seem to eat so much more in the way of nusance algae.
I have some of that garlic extract. I use it every once in a while. I got it back when I had a huge outbreak of Ich and it didn't seem to do too much for the ones that were really sick. Half of the fish in my tank didn't seem to be affected by the Ich at all while the other half ended up dieing. Now I use the Garlic extract maybe once a week with some mysis shrimp, and I also use selcon with the garlic extract. I can't tell if it is doing anything but since i have the stuff I might as well use it. I don't know if I'd buy anymore of the garlic extract or not. For instance today I noticed a white patch on one of the fins of my scotts fairy wrasse. I figured today was a good day to use the garlic.
- Scott
- Goby
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I am more worried about the equipment. Wht kind of skimmer and how is it performing? What kind of lighting and how old are the bulbs? Are there any other types of mechanical filtration? If the DOC and other things are not being removed there could be an increase in NH3, NO2 and NO3. These could cause the hair algae and some could cause stress to fish. I also wonder about well water.In Lucedale their well water taste terrible. It is all minerals which I have been told includes Cu and well water can hate nitrates, phosphates and other bad stuff. Also if they transfered the old sandbed to the new tank there could be a problem.
I would suggest all the tests that are available be run and see about nutrient export.
I would suggest all the tests that are available be run and see about nutrient export.
Wanted: to set up a tank again.
- reefman8471
- Amoeba
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Need Help ASAP
Hi;
I agree that the bulbs should be checked for there age. If they are more than 12 months old they should be replaced as the spectrum has shifted by then. That will sometimes favor algae growth instead of coral growth.
The skimmer may not be as effective as it should be as well although she only increased the system by 15 gallons.
The tank may need more water flow as well. Since the dimentions are different you may need to add another powerhead or two. Also, change the direction of the flow in the tank. That will help with the hair algae. Within reason you can't have too much waterflow. Otherwise just pull the algae out and keep the lights on no more than 12 hours. Diatoms should go away on their own (brown algae).
As far as the ick is concerned the quarentine tank would be best. There is one alternative and that is Kent RxP. I haven't used it myself but I know others who have and it is reef safe. Just don't use it with Lionfish. Cleaner shrimp don't do well on heavy amounts of ick.
As far as adding anything to the tank I would limit myself to algae eaters and scavengers.
James
I agree that the bulbs should be checked for there age. If they are more than 12 months old they should be replaced as the spectrum has shifted by then. That will sometimes favor algae growth instead of coral growth.
The skimmer may not be as effective as it should be as well although she only increased the system by 15 gallons.
The tank may need more water flow as well. Since the dimentions are different you may need to add another powerhead or two. Also, change the direction of the flow in the tank. That will help with the hair algae. Within reason you can't have too much waterflow. Otherwise just pull the algae out and keep the lights on no more than 12 hours. Diatoms should go away on their own (brown algae).
As far as the ick is concerned the quarentine tank would be best. There is one alternative and that is Kent RxP. I haven't used it myself but I know others who have and it is reef safe. Just don't use it with Lionfish. Cleaner shrimp don't do well on heavy amounts of ick.
As far as adding anything to the tank I would limit myself to algae eaters and scavengers.
James
There are no problems; only solutions.